Ioniq 5 Ultimate 73kWh RWD

Or, to bring it back to 2022, I'll use Rob as an example.
He can park near his house and run an extension lead over the footpath to charge his car. Rob, being a sensible chap, uses a rubber cable bridge to protect the cable and prevent anyone triping over the cable. He might even have a traffic cone as an extra warning.

Dave on the other hand doesn't give it a second thought, it's only a charging cable. Someone trips over the cable, the brown stuff hits the fan. Dave's defence, XYZ motor company didn't write in their manual I couldn't do it.

Lowest common denominator. Car companies are very conservative when it comes to risk.

Except Rob never did this although he thought about it. Seemed too much risk for the time needed to fully charge it. For quite some time I could have worked in the car and charged it for free at the Tesco I suppose.

Something else with BEVs I hadn't thought of until yesterday but I had for keyless entry in 2014. Pacemakers. The manual of the Mazda6 mentioned a risk with pacemakers due to keyless entry. Tried looking into it (mother-in-law had one) and got nowhere. In the end I preferred the Audi A3 for a few other reasons over the Mazda6 (DSG petrol vs diesel manual and also the infotainment) so problem avoided. Now there is a concern about BEVs especially about charging... possibility of a risk that means you should not plug in the BEV or be in it when charging.

Did my first 'fast charge' yesterday at a local motorway service station - just to see how it all worked. A GridServe machine supposedly able to provide 120kWh at £0.385/kW. Only gave me 38kWh (same as the guy in the MG EV next to me) but was very easy to use and to download a VAT receipt from the website.

How full was the battery when you started ? You'll only see max charge rate over 20% up to about 40-45% after which it will start throttling back.

I don't think pacemakers are an issue as manufacturers are now promoting the vehicles as mobile offices. Obviously, if you have one or know someone who does then you/they would be well advised to speak to their cardiac specialist.

Your battery stores electrical energy, about 260 megajoules of it. Consuming (or converting) that to drive a load at a rate of 1 kJ/s (aka 1kW) would take about 262,000 seconds, or about 73 hours. Hence a capacity of 73 kWh.

Conversely, charging that battery from empty would take 73 hours at 1kW, or 0.73h at a true 100kW. A watt is a unit of rate, a joule per second. A kilowatt hour multiplies out the time divisor to give a quantity of energy, 3.6 MJ

The energy comparison is the one I keep mentioning in the context of petrol and diesel engines. Your old Mercedes, and the one I still have, carry around 3,000 MJ to achieve a useful range, 12 times as much energy as your Hyundai battery.

Maybe one of you whizzes can explain to me what my "driving data" is telling me about my phev?

If I go somewhere that just uses the battery, as I did today, it tells me that I travelled 18 miles, my mpg (I used no petrol) was 313.9 mpg, and then it tells me that was 27kWh/100 miles battery consumption.

Yesterday I did a much longer journey, so used fuel For that one, I got a total distance of 254 miles, 64.2 mpg and 3kWh/100 miles battery consumption.

I'm used to EVs telling me I use 3-5 kWKKhKws or whatever they are, per mile. I can understand that. I can't get my head round what the Skoda is telling me though. Any clues?

I suspect your mpg is being calculated in a similar way to ICE calculating distance to empty based on the last however many miles travelled and driving style.

If you do a lot of short journeys on battery only the mpg will rise because you're not using any petrol. As soon as the motor kicks in the mpg tumbles. They're not road miles you can get from burning one gallon of fuel in the engine.

For your short day to day trips using battery only it's the kWh/miles travelled you're interested in.